My Secret Rome Copy
(SUMMER 2022) - This summer I spent seven weeks in Rome conducting ethnographic research, focusing on trends and cultural consumer styles. For this assignment, I was asked to write a personal essay in the City Secrets genre that would be a window into a place or an experience I found particularly interesting, personal and meaningful in Rome. This was an opportunity to be more creative, use ethnographic tools and apply what I have learned about the city during my stay.
My Rome is across the river in Trastevere. The sun rises at apertivio and sets at final call. A walk through my city starts at Piazza Trilussa, the hotspot for local celebs. If you are lucky, you may catch an early performance from Italian Cowboy. If not, Off-brand Italian Cowboy performs at 21:00 (he does a great “Video Killed the Radio Star”), and Trastevere Daredevil is scheduled after at 22:00. Think of Piazza Trilussa as Trastevere’s Colosseum. Performers fight other performers for stage time. There are no rules. Whoever shows up first plays first. If a performer wants to go next, they simply set up and play the first chance they get.
Next, enter the maze of Trastevere to find aperitivo. Along your journey, you will be tempted. Men and women, old and young, will try and lure you into their restaurant, promising you whatever you think you need at that moment. Stay strong and avoid these places. 9 out of 10 times, you will be disappointed. Remember you are looking for aperitivo. Meccanismo serves a great platter, but the drinks are limited. At Caramella, you can get any drink you want (cocktails included), but it can be hit-or-miss with the food. F e F gives you more of an apericena, but it can be hard to get a table. Finding the perfect aperitivo takes some trial and error, so do not be afraid to explore.
After you’ve found aperitivo stay a while. It is a special moment of the day. DO NOT RUSH IT. It is considered a faux pas (according to me) to aperitivo for only an hour. This is the perfect moment to learn something about someone you did not know before. Do not forget to reminisce. If you are alone, it is the perfect time to live slowly, people watch and eavesdrop.
Once you’ve ended aperitivo at an appropriate time, it is time to make a choice. Gelato? More drinks? Italian Cowboy? This requires some self-reflection, and all based on personal preference. In my walk of the city, we are headed straight for Italian Cowboy on Via Di Ponte Sisto. He plays side-stage to the performer on Pizza Trilussa, but like most side-stage acts, they are more interesting than the headliner.
Italian Cowboy is not the best singer, but he is the smartest performer in Trastevere. He plays typical English bar songs that are easy to play on the guitar, such as “Hotel California,” “Sweet Home Alabama” and “Wonderwall.” He surprises Americans with his repertoire of songs, impresses Italians with his knowledge of English music and gets everyone else to stop and wonder what the hell he is doing.
For an American student studying abroad, the Italian Cowboy is special. He reminds you of home. Nothing will beat Italian Cowboy’s May 18, 2022, performance on Via Di Ponte Sisto, in my opinion. He sang the classics like “Hotel California” “Sweet Home Alabama.” Then he began to sing “Wonderwall.” For anyone who knew me during my sophomore year of college, I was obsessed with Oasis. I was planning to prove to you readers how much I loved Oasis, but you came here to read about my city, not my obsession. “Wonderwall” was amazing. It was like any other time a guy who faintly knows how to play the guitar. Italian Cowboy was the maestro, the audience his choir. It is more about the moment and the feeling than the person playing the song.
Then Italian Cowboy began to sing “Don’t Look Back in Anger.” Another very popular Oasis song but lesser-known to an international crowd. This was evident by the lack of group participation by the audience. I began to sing this song with Italian Cowboy. At one point, I carried the song, Italian Cowboy gave me a solo I did not ask for, but I will never forget that moment on Via Di Ponte Sisto.
I’m beginning to get tired, so I’m going to head home, but feel free to explore my Rome some more. I hope you’ve enjoyed my guided tour.
